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West
Coast Summer 2003: Part I |
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| Seattle: Founded in 1850
by a group of expatriate New Yorkers, among others. Little of
this mattered to me on the excruciating plane ride to the west
coast, where I battled the twin demons of sleep deprivation
and hangover. Sean picked me up and took me to his home: |
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I kept forgetting to bring my camera with me so I don't have
a lot of narrative illustration for the trip. I met Sean's
lovely girlfriend Samantha, and we watched Sean in a bike
race in Redmond. This utterly exhausted me and it was not
until nightfall that I felt awake enough to go to the local
sports bar to watch the Tour de France and get drunk. I managed
to get through the whole week without drinking whiskey, mostly
because every bar in town served at least one type of Hefe
Weissen, which is always a good choice in warm weather.
Over the next couple of days I learned the mantra of the
inert Seattlite: coffee, beer, coffee, beer. I couldn't even
tell you if there were any other beverages available. I met
up with Jefe and his gal Peggy, who are newcomers to the west
coast. But already they're taking the city by the throat and
making it beg for them to please stop singing. For one minute.
Please. Jefe's got a play about cannibalism that will be produced
in the next few months and Peggy's fighting off the callbacks.
I get the impression these guys will not take no for an answer.
And yet, they don't want to live in New York. They so crazy:
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| I spent a lot of time at an Internet cafe,
my first such experience somehow. Online
Coffee, despite the utilitarian name, was a lovely little
place that offered 30 minutes of free Internet access with a
coffee purchase. Here I caught up on my e-mail and blog-related
obsessions. Then I would retire to the outdoor area to, get
this, smoke in a public establishment. No wonder that
band named itself 'Nirvana.' On the patio of the coffee house
there was a painting I found particularly resonant: |
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There's a close-up of the standard; how empowering.
There are many crows in Seattle, but I don't have any pictures.
You'll have to take my word for it. Here I am, swatting at
them:
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This was in Sean's yard. His neighborhood deli has more exotic
gourmet foodstuffs than Garden
of Eden. Apparently all convenience stores are like this
in Seattle.
Jim took me out for a day on the town with Roman, who eyed
me suspiciously when I made light of his hat:
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| We checked out the tide pools on Puget Sound,
then we headed to Ballard
Locks, where they raise and lower the water levels to move
rich people's boats around (also I understand there is some
sort of practical element involved as well). This was also home
to the famed Fish Ladder, a stepped device to allow salmon to
swim upstream: |
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You'll have to imagine the tank teeming with salmon flying
out of the water. We only saw one with the gumption to try.
I still say that witnessing drawbridges in action was one
of the highlights of my trip. I know it's a commonplace annoyance
for Seattlites, but oh, the wonder of it all!
Jim took me to his plot at the community garden, where his
huge plants made a mockery of the few sorry vegetables I have
struggling to survive in the debris-laden soil of my backyard:
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Again, I forgot my camera on most of my outings. Here's some
other stuff I did: I went to some Ethiopian and Afghani restaurants,
drank more coffee than somebody without immediate access to
a bathroom should, got lost in an arboretum, bought Phoebe
Gloeckner's disturbing Diary
of a Teenage Girl, I learned more about the Tour de
France and the mating habits of sockeye salmon than I ever
dreamed possible, and spent way too much time at Sonic
Boom Records, possibly the greatest record store of all
time, if only because every CD they carry is matched by the
same record on 12" vinyl. Nobody does that anymore.
And of course, there was invaluable chill-out time spent
at Sean's bachelor pad (shared with an Irish Elvis impersonator,
I shit you not). Here we ate sockeye and read Maxim
and drank even more coffee. You'd think these people would
be as uptight as New Yorkers with all this java, but they
were laid back to an almost Zen level.
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My last day in Seattle: I ran into a friend
(el Jefe) while wandering around, I finally saw those mountains
usually obscured by haze, I of course drank lotsa joe, I hung
out in a gay bar and listened to "Summer Loving"
from the Grease soundtrack, and I saw some live Seattle
rock at Chop
Suey. I remember Lure
of the Animal (which Sean rightly pointed out as a Seinfeld
reference), and Lloyd's
Rocket, which Sean also pointed out as a gas station reference.
I got drunk on Hefe Weissen and still got enough sleep to
bear the trip to California.
Comments
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Next: My harrowing trip to California, featuring
the B52s! Well, sort of.
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